Quarts De Chaume: A Land of deliciousness
Nestled in the heart of the Loire Valley, the Quarts de Chaume region unfolds like a blanket of patchwork greens, woolly tree lines, rolling vineyards, and weaving roads and rivers. The landscape is whispered by those who cherish the symphony of nature expressed through the art of winemaking. This verdant enclave, where the vines have intertwined with the local culture for centuries, offers wine, yes, but it also offers a story, a testament to the human spirit's endeavour to craft beauty from the earth. As we sail down the Loire on this journey through Quarts de Chaume, lets savour the sights, sounds, smells and tastes of this wonderful place and its exquisite wines, listening to the stories and souls that have nurtured this land.
The Rich Tapestry of History
The story of Quarts de Chaume is layered and complex, much like the wines it produces. It is a tale that begins in the depths of history, where the confluence of the Loire River and the nurturing soil created a sanctuary for viticulture. The earliest records, etched in the stones of ancient abbeys, hint at vines being cultivated since the Roman-era, but it was in the Middle Ages that the region truly found its calling.
The Middle Ages
In the period of time that encompasses the Quarts de Chaume, little threads of history come together. Tales of lands gifted and labours of love give us the Quarts de Chame we know and adore now. The year was 1028 when Foulques Nerra, the formidable Count of Anjou, with a flourish of generosity and perhaps a peppering of foresight into the future, bestowed upon the ‘Abbaye de Ronceray’ in Angers; a verdant expanse that cradled the village of Chaume, perched above the meandering Layon river.
This gift was the seed from which centuries of viticultural tradition would sprout. The astute nuns of Ronceray, guardians of this newfound wealth, devised a system of stewardship that would harness the land's potential while nurturing a symbiotic relationship with the local populace. Known as ‘la tenure paysanne’, this arrangement invited the hands of the locals to till, toil, and tend to the vines, transforming the gift of soil and sun into a bounty of harvests.
Yet, this collaboration was not wholly generous, it came with the need to pay a tribute, a nod to the celestial hand that fed them perhaps. The farmers, now custodians of this little slice of heaven, were to offer a tithe to the Abbaye—a portion of their yield. Not just any portion though. (I am sure you can see where this is going), the portion was typically one-quarter, a Quart.
The annals of the abbey give more detail to these times in their preserved pages. By the 15th century, the tradition had woven itself into the very identity of the land. The Seigneur de la Guerche, a figure of whom we know little, had been granted the honour of tending to a fragment of the land. When he paid his dues, he did so in a manner that hints at an understanding of what parcels of land created the best fruit. His tribute, "the best quarter of the harvest, from the back of the slope facing south," was a tithe as well as a testament to the land's prowess, a proclamation that the terroir now known as Quarts de Chaume was already renowned for its potential to produce top quality loveliness.
In the abbey's vaults, documents, brittle with age, bear witness to the villages journey through time. A decree from the year 1674, setting the dates for the harvest, serves as a poignant reminder of the rhythm that has pulsed through Quarts de Chaume and the vignerons attending to it. Aa rhythm dictated by the earth, the vine, and the celestial dance overhead.
So it was, through the gift of a count, the wisdom of nuns, and the labour of the land's children, Quarts de Chaume was sculpted, not just as a place to grow grapes, but as a living legacy of wine, pulled from the earth, the vine, and the human spirit.
The last 400 years
As the centuries turned, Quarts de Chaume became a beacon for those who sought excellence in winemaking. The Renaissance brought with it an era of enlightenment, where the fusion of science and nature led to a deeper understanding of viticulture. Nobility and scholars alike were drawn to the region by the allure of its wines and as a place of intellectual and cultural exchange on the subject.
The 19th century heralded a golden age for Quarts de Chaume, as its wines graced the tables of royalty across Europe. It was during this time that the unique identity of Quarts de Chaume wines began to crystallize, celebrated for their balance, depth, and an almost ethereal quality that spoke of their terroir.
However, history is not without its trials. The region faced challenges, from phylloxera invasions, famous for their destruction of the European wine industry, to the world wars, and quite a few appellation changes, each event leaving its mark. In more contemporary history, this area was originally classified as a controlled designation of origin by the decree of August 10, 1954. This was, however, repealed by the decree of October 9, 2009.
Thankfully the latest specifications were published on November 24, 2011 creating the term “grand cru ” (The first in the Loire) which can be added to the Quarts-de-Chaume appellation. This means:
the AOC Quarts de Chaume can be supplemented with the mention “grand cru”
And gives recognition of the “AOC Coteaux-du-Layon premier cru” supplemented by the additional geographical name “Chaume”.
The Art and Soul of Winemaking
In the enclave of Quarts de Chaume, embraced by the river, winemaking engage in the act of fermentation; it becomes a dance of elements, a play of tradition and innovation. Here, the vintners are craftsmen; poets of the palate, guardians of a tradition that turns sunlight, grapes, soil, and fungus; into liquid gold.
Embracing Tradition with a Modern Touch
The quintessence of Quarts de Chaume winemaking lies in its adherence to time-honoured techniques, handed down through generations like precious heirlooms. The art of selecting the perfect grape, the delicate timing of the harvest under the kiss of the autumn sun, awareness of the patterns of clouds and rain, and the ancient practice of "noble rot" (botrytization), which concentrates the grapes sugars, giving a sweet juice full of concentrated complexity, and wonderful depth of acidity. These are all rituals performed with almost reverent precision.
Yet, this deep respect for tradition does not hinder the spirit of innovation that pervades the cellars and vineyards. Modern viticultural practices, such as sustainable farming and precision viticulture, blend seamlessly with the old, ensuring the wines of Quarts de Chaume retain their soul while embracing the possibilities of the present. At this point in time, the average annual production over the last 5 years is 400hl (aka, about 53,000 bottles of absolute yum)!
The Terroir's Whisper
The winemakers of Quarts de Chaume are fluent in the language of the land, understanding that each vine, each plot of soil, has its own voice. The unique microclimate, known as Mesoclimatic, with its gentle mists and the nurturing Loire breezes, together with the diverse soil types - from Brioverian schist and Pudding Stone - create a mosaic of micro-terroirs. This intricate tapestry of environmental factors is what gives Quarts de Chaume wines their distinctive character, an elegant fusion of minerality, fruit, and finesse.
One expressive Varietal
Chenin Blanc reigns supreme, its expressions in Quarts de Chaume are exquisite, lusciously sweet wines. Each telling a different story of the land. The meticulous care in canopy management, the philosophical approach to vineyard biodiversity, and the veneration of the grape's integrity from vine to bottle, ensure that each bottle of wine is a drink that tells the story of its home, a distillation of the region's soul. These sweet wines can be enjoyed young and fresh, but can also be aged for sometimes up to 30-40 years.
The hallmark of Quarts de Chaume is its exquisitely sweet baked apple dessert flavours, liquid gold that dances on the tongue with a balance of honeyed richness and vibrant acidity. These nectars, born from the noble rot-graced Chenin Blanc, are a tapestry of flavours - apricot whispers, marmalade, honeysuckle blossoms, honey, and a minerality that speaks of the earth. Yet, within this sweetness, there is also expressiveness. Diversity abounds. From the ethereal lightness of a young vintage to the profound depth of a well-aged bottle, each wine is a unique journal entry in the ongoing saga of Quarts de Chaume.